WATER-FREE PFAS-FREE TEXTILE FINISHING

New Mexico start-up Green Theme Technologies currently delivers EMPEL® molecular water fabric protection without water and chemicals

 “When I observed widespread water contamination in Asia—large amounts of textile wastewater filled with toxic chemicals—I recognized the seriousness of the issue. Learning that these water tanks contributed to only one-third of the total pollution from textile manufacturing made the problem undeniable. That was when I knew I had to take action. Since then, I've become an evangelist for eliminating PFAS and transforming the entire manufacturing paradigm into cleaner, more sustainable, and better for the planet but still retains performance integrity.”

-- Martin Flora, President Global Business Development Green Theme Technologies

Interview with Martin Flora President Global Business Development GTT

By Suzanne Forcese

WT: Martin, please introduce yourself to our viewers by giving us a brief bio describing the journey that brought you to founding EMPEL®by Green Theme Technologies.

Flora: Diverse educational and professional experiences have shaped my journey to founding EMPEL® (owned by Green Theme Technologies). I spent seven years training in Textiles and Apparel Design/Merchandising in the USA, then studying High Fashion Design at the Chambre Syndicale in Paris. This blend of functional and high fashion design education laid the groundwork for my career in creating innovative solutions across multiple industries.

Over the years, I’ve had the privilege of working with major brands like Columbia and Dick’s Sporting Goods, as well as creating high-performance gear for the Department of Defense (DOD) and special operations groups such as the Navy SEALs. These experiences have broadened my perspective on various markets' design, performance, and sustainability needs.

However, through these experiences, I began to recognize manufacturing processes' profound impact on our environment, particularly water use and pollution. This realization inspired me to found EMPEL®, which focuses on developing sustainable alternatives to traditional textile DWR (Durable Water Repellent) manufacturing—primarily through our flagship innovation, EMPEL®.

WT: Why is the focus on water?

Flora: Throughout my career, I’ve witnessed outdated manufacturing processes in the textile, apparel, and footwear industries, many of which rely on water-intensive methods that pollute our water systems.

While many believe these industries produce cheaper products by cutting costs, the reality is that it’s simply easier to maintain these polluting, traditional methods unless they are pressured to change.

Water is an incredibly scarce resource, and the pollution generated by these practices is unsustainable. EMPEL® is the only DWR solution on the market today that is PFAS-free and water-free. EMPEL® is more than just a solution— EMPEL® is a brand leading the transition in sustainable performance textiles.

WT: Please give us an overview of the team talent that has created EMPEL's disruptive technology.

Flora: GTT is led by a team of innovators passionate about reshaping the future of manufacturing. With over 50 years of combined experience in textiles, fashion, and high-performance industries, our team is dedicated to addressing the industry's most pressing environmental challenges. EMPEL® is a product that aims to create lasting changes for future generations and the planet.

Cathy Zhao, our CTO, is a key addition to our leadership team. She is an accomplished and goal-oriented leader known for her exceptional creativity and innovation in materials, products, and technology development. Cathy has been pivotal in the successful evolution of EMPEL®, enabling scalability and allowing us to penetrate multiple verticals beyond outdoor performance and venture into athletic fashion, workwear, and furnishings. Our groundbreaking treatment process is designed to deliver high-performance, sustainable textile solutions across a broader range of verticals.

We are establishing our leadership in the high-performance, water-free DWR market. No other C-zero DWR treatment can genuinely claim to be water-free and effective. As the first provider of PFAS-free, water-free DWR solutions, EMPEL® has set the industry standard by exceeding industry standards and testing. With EMPEL®, we position ourselves as the ingredient brand that empowers our partners across outdoor performance, footwear, apparel, athletic, fashion, workwear, and other sectors to create high-performing and environmentally responsible products. This strategic focus enables us to deliver the most effective, sustainable, and scalable solutions available today.

WT: How does your process differ from traditional DWR finishes?

Flora: EMPEL®, our innovative technology, stands apart from traditional textile DWR finishes by using no water or PFAS. This technology encapsulates each fiber within the textile, offering the highest-performing DWR (Durable Water Repellent), anti-wick, and stain-resistant finishes available today. Unlike water-based or chemical-intensive treatments that degrade over time, EMPEL® delivers a permanent finish, extending the product's lifespan.

The EMPEL® solution offers consumers performance DWR garments that maintain functionality even after numerous washes (10X better than other PFAS-free DWR solutions), ensuring durability and performance. This also minimizes the need for replacements, providing both environmental and economic advantages. Products made with EMPEL® include outdoor apparel, performance rainwear, and footwear, all crafted to deliver exceptional protection in the most severe conditions. For consumers, EMPEL® represents enhanced performance, longer-lasting products, and a reduced environmental footprint compared to conventional DWR finishes.

WT: EMPEL® has received several awards and has also been recognized by Cleantech Group for cleaning up PFAS pollution. What have these accolades meant to you and the team?

Flora: While the awards are a wonderful acknowledgment of our hard work, their true value lies in the broader message they convey. These accolades give us a platform to educate both consumers and brands about the urgent need for change in the textile industry. Our technology isn’t just about winning awards; it’s about fostering lasting change that inspires the entire industry to adopt better practices. EMPEL® is at the forefront of that initiative, and these recognitions enable us to amplify the message that textile manufacturing must improve for the better.

WT: What have been some of the milestones in the EMPEL® movement?

Flora: One of our most significant milestones was securing production for Nike, a leading global brand. This partnership clearly demonstrates that our technology can scale to meet the demands of international brands. Furthermore, each new collaboration with an innovative brand that adopts EMPEL® brings us closer to transforming the industry.

These milestones represent not only business successes but also a significant impact on how the entire industry views sustainability, including YKK's adoption of the technology to produce zippers and collaborations with brands like Black Diamond Outdoor Wear.

WT: What stage is GTT at currently? How is the investment landscape developing for you? Can you comment on the collaboration between brands and regulatory bodies?

Flora: We recently completed our Series C funding round, raising over $6 million to fuel our next phase of growth. Investors are increasingly recognizing the potential of EMPEL® and the new solutions in development, which continue to position us as a leader in transforming the textile industry toward a more sustainable future.

Concerning regulatory bodies, there is a growing wave of support for technologies that eliminate harmful chemicals such as PFAS. Brands are taking a more proactive approach in aligning sustainability goals and regulatory compliance, which is crucial for fostering lasting changes throughout the industry. EMPEL® is well-positioned to spearhead this transformation.

WT: Moving forward...what's next?

Flora: Simplifying how mills use our product will enable scalability—our white-glove service with mills to achieve the best test results further distinguishes us from C0 alternatives. Our next major initiative aims to elevate EMPEL® to new heights. We will enhance the scalability of our technology and expand its applications across various sectors. We will focus on extending its impact beyond performance apparel and integrating it into a broader range of textile products in our R&D pipeline. As industry increasingly demands more sustainable practices, EMPEL® remains at the forefront of textile innovation. Additionally, we are committed to ensuring that our solution can integrate seamlessly into global supply chains, making it easier for brands to adopt this cleaner, more efficient technology.

WT: You have certainly made a splash in the industry...now what would you like to sink in?

Flora: The power to change the industry lies with innovators, manufacturers, and consumers. EMPEL® and similar technologies will not thrive unless consumers demand better and more sustainable products. Consumers can help accelerate the transition to a cleaner and more responsible industry by making informed purchasing decisions.

Sustainability doesn’t have to be complicated. It’s about making informed choices and being aware of how the products we buy are made. Fast fashion and impulse buying don’t benefit the planet, they contribute to its destruction. Look for quality products that are designed to last 20 to 30 years. Ask yourself: will these clothes hold up after years of use, or will they end up in a landfill after just a few washes? Choosing long-lasting, sustainable products is one of the most effective ways to impact the planet positively. Everything else is just marketing noise.

Related:

Cleantech Group looks at innovators in the textile and agriculture sectors for alternatives to PFAS in water, soil, & air